Beneath the streets of Pioneer Square lies Seattle’s original city, buried after the Great Fire of 1889 and preserved in a network of underground passageways that few visitors know about. Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour is one of Seattle’s most unique attractions, a 75-minute walk through subterranean corridors and storefronts that were once at street level before the entire city was raised by one to two stories. For Alaska cruise travelers, it is an affordable and fascinating way to spend a couple of hours learning how Seattle transformed from a muddy frontier outpost into the major port city from which your cruise departs.
What to Expect
The Underground Tour begins at Doc Maynard’s Public House, a restored 1890s saloon at 610 1st Avenue in the heart of Pioneer Square. This is both the ticket office and the gathering point for your tour group. Tours depart on a regular schedule throughout the day, typically every 30 minutes during peak season.
Your guide leads a group of roughly 30 to 40 people on a route that alternates between above-ground walking in Pioneer Square and descents into the underground passages below. The tour includes three separate underground sections, each accessed by staircase from different points along the walking route.
Above ground, you walk through Pioneer Square’s historic blocks, seeing the ornate Romanesque Revival architecture that was built after the fire. Your guide points out details in the brickwork, iron facades, and building designs that tell the story of the rapid rebuilding. The neighborhood looks much as it did in the 1890s, making it easy to imagine the city in its early days.
Below ground, you walk through the old street-level spaces that were entombed when the city raised its streets. These passages are lit by overhead skylights (the purple glass prisms you see set into the sidewalks above) and by electric lights installed for the tours. You will see old storefront facades, original signage, remnants of the old sidewalk, and the structural supports that hold up the current street above your head.
The guides are entertainers as much as historians. They deliver the history of Seattle with dry humor and well-practiced comedic timing. You will learn why the city was built on tidal flats in the first place, how a single pot of boiling glue started the fire that destroyed 25 city blocks, and the very practical reason why raising the streets became necessary (hint: it involved plumbing, tides, and some unfortunate consequences for early Seattle residents).
The storytelling covers topics including:
- The founding of Seattle in the 1850s on Puget Sound tidal flats, which flooded twice daily
- The Great Fire of June 6, 1889, which burned for 12 hours and destroyed the entire business district
- The decision to rebuild at a higher elevation, creating the underground layer you walk through today
- Doc Maynard, one of Seattle’s founders, whose colorful personal life and questionable business decisions shaped the early city
- The Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-1898, which transformed Seattle from a small timber town into a booming port and outfitting center for prospectors heading to Alaska
That last point is especially relevant for Alaska cruise travelers. Seattle became the gateway to Alaska because of the Gold Rush, and the infrastructure built to support that rush laid the groundwork for the cruise industry that operates from the same waterfront today.
Who This Is For
The Underground Tour is one of the most broadly appealing activities in Seattle. It works for:
- History buffs: The tour delivers genuine historical content wrapped in entertaining storytelling. You will learn things about Seattle’s founding that most guidebooks omit.
- Families with school-age children: Kids ages 7 and up generally enjoy the adventure of going underground and the guides’ humor. It feels like a mild urban exploration.
- Budget-conscious travelers: At $25 to $35 per person, this is one of the most affordable excursions available before an Alaska cruise.
- Rainy day visitors: Since half the tour is underground and the above-ground sections are in a compact area, this works well even in Seattle’s frequent drizzle.
- Anyone curious about why things are the way they are: If you have ever walked down a sidewalk in Pioneer Square and noticed the purple glass panels set into the concrete, this tour explains exactly what they are and why they are there.
The tour is not ideal for:
- People with mobility issues: The underground sections are accessed by stairs only, and there are four to five staircases during the tour. There is no elevator or wheelchair access underground. The passages also have uneven floors in spots.
- People with severe claustrophobia: The underground corridors have low ceilings in some sections, typically around 7 to 8 feet, and are enclosed spaces. Most people find them fine, but if enclosed spaces cause you genuine distress, consider a different activity.
- Very young children: Kids under 7 are allowed free but may get bored during the 75-minute narrated tour. There is a lot of standing and listening.
Ship vs. Independent Booking
This is an independent booking activity since it occurs before your cruise departure. Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour is the original operator and the most well-known, but a second operator also offers underground access:
Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour has been running since 1965 and is the gold standard. They offer several tour options:
- Standard Underground Tour: $22 to $28 per adult, $10 to $14 for children 7 to 12, free for kids under 7. Runs daily with departures every 30 minutes during summer. The 75-minute family-friendly tour covers three underground sections with humorous narration.
- Underworld Tour: $27 to $35 per person, 21-plus only. This evening tour covers the racier aspects of Pioneer Square history, including the old red-light district and prohibition-era stories. Same underground access but with adult-oriented content.
- Combo tickets including the standard tour plus admission to the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park museum are occasionally available and offer good value.
Beneath the Streets is a newer operator offering a slightly different take. Their tours are smaller (around 16 people versus Bill Speidel’s 30-40), cover different underground sections, and tend to focus more on serious history with less comedic performance. Prices are comparable at $22 to $30 per adult. They are a good alternative if Bill Speidel’s tours are sold out or if you prefer a smaller group experience.
Book online through the operator’s website. During summer, morning tours tend to sell out first since they are most popular with cruise travelers who need to be at the terminal by early afternoon.
What to Bring
- A light jacket or sweater: The underground passages are 55 to 60 degrees regardless of the weather above. Even on a warm summer day, you will appreciate a layer.
- Comfortable walking shoes: You will walk about a mile total, including stairs, and the underground floors can be uneven. Avoid heels or slick-soled shoes.
- Your phone or camera: Photography is allowed in the underground passages. The lighting is dim, so a phone with a decent low-light camera works best. Flash photography is permitted.
- Cash for tips: Tipping your guide is customary. Five to ten dollars per person is typical for a good experience.
- Water: The tour does not provide water, and you will not have access to drinks during the 75-minute underground portion.
You do not need to bring a bag. The tour is short enough that you can travel light.
Timing Your Tour Before Boarding
The Underground Tour is one of the easiest pre-cruise activities to fit into your schedule because of its short duration and frequent departures. Alaska cruises depart from Pier 91 at 4:00 or 4:30 PM. Pioneer Square is about a 10-minute drive from the cruise terminal.
- Morning tour (10:00 or 11:00 AM): Finish by noon. You have the entire afternoon for lunch, Pike Place Market, and boarding with zero stress. This is the most popular option for cruise travelers.
- Early afternoon tour (1:00 or 2:00 PM): Finish by 2:30 to 3:30 PM. Head directly to the terminal. Tight but doable.
- Combined morning: Take the 10:00 AM Underground Tour, finish at 11:15, walk to Pike Place Market (15 minutes on foot), explore and eat lunch, then head to the pier by 2:00 PM. This is the ideal pre-cruise day in Seattle.
The Underground Tour’s compact duration makes it easy to pair with other activities. Many cruise travelers combine it with a food tour, a walk to Pike Place Market, or lunch in Pioneer Square.
Pioneer Square: More Than the Underground
While you are in the neighborhood for the tour, Pioneer Square has several other attractions worth your time:
- Smith Tower: When it opened in 1914, this 38-story building was the tallest west of the Mississippi. Today, the 35th-floor observation deck and speakeasy-style bar offer panoramic views of Puget Sound, the Olympic Mountains, and Mount Rainier. Admission is $22 to $25 per adult and includes a cocktail or non-alcoholic drink.
- Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park: This free National Park Service museum at 319 2nd Avenue South tells the story of the 1897 Gold Rush through exhibits, photos, and ranger-led programs. It is a perfect complement to the Underground Tour and directly relevant to your Alaska cruise.
- Pioneer Square galleries: The neighborhood is Seattle’s art district, with dozens of galleries concentrated on 1st Avenue South and Occidental Avenue South. The First Thursday Art Walk is a monthly event, but galleries are open year-round.
- Waterfall Garden Park: A tiny pocket park at 219 2nd Avenue South featuring a 22-foot waterfall built on the site where United Parcel Service (UPS) was founded in 1907. It is a peaceful spot to sit and rest after the tour.
Pioneer Square is also one of Seattle’s best neighborhoods for lunch. The area has everything from upscale restaurants to casual lunch spots and food trucks, particularly along 1st Avenue and Occidental Square.
The History Behind the Tour
Understanding the backstory makes the tour more meaningful. Seattle was founded in 1852 on the shores of Elliott Bay, but the founders made a critical error. They built the town center on tidal mudflats, which meant that at high tide, the streets flooded and the city’s rudimentary plumbing system ran backward. This was not just inconvenient; it was a genuine public health hazard.
When the Great Fire of June 6, 1889, burned down 25 blocks of the business district, the city saw an opportunity. Rather than rebuild at the same level, city engineers decided to raise the streets by one to two stories using fill material. Buildings were rebuilt immediately at the old street level (business owners could not wait for the regrading), and when the new streets were eventually completed at the higher elevation, the original ground floors became basements and the old sidewalks became underground passages.
For several years, the city existed at two levels simultaneously. Pedestrians used ladders to climb between the old sidewalk level and the new street level. Eventually, the underground was sealed off and largely forgotten until local historian Bill Speidel started his tours in 1965 as part of a campaign to save the Pioneer Square neighborhood from demolition.
Today, the tour preserves this quirky chapter of urban history and gives visitors a tangible connection to the practical challenges that shaped one of the West Coast’s most important cities.
How to Book
Book online through the operator’s website for guaranteed entry. Walk-up tickets are available but risky during summer months.
| Tour Option | Price (Adult) | Price (Child 7-12) | Duration | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bill Speidel’s Standard Tour | $22–$28 | $10–$14 | 75 minutes | Daily, every 30 min (summer) |
| Bill Speidel’s Underworld Tour | $27–$35 | 21+ only | 75 minutes | Evening departures |
| Beneath the Streets | $22–$30 | $12–$16 | 75 minutes | Daily, select times |
Arrive at Doc Maynard’s Public House at least 15 minutes before your scheduled tour to check in and use the restroom. The ticket office also serves as a gift shop and bar, so you can grab a drink while you wait.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is the Seattle Underground?
After the Great Seattle Fire of 1889, the city was rebuilt one to two stories higher than the original street level. The old ground floors of buildings became basements, and the original sidewalks became underground passageways. The tour takes you beneath the current streets of Pioneer Square to walk through these preserved subterranean corridors and storefronts that were once at street level.
Is the Underground Tour scary or claustrophobic?
The tour is not designed to be scary. It is a humorous history tour, not a haunted house experience. The underground passageways are lit and have concrete floors with reasonable ceiling height. Some sections are narrow and low-ceilinged, which might bother people with severe claustrophobia. The spaces are not cramped enough to trouble most people, but if you are very uncomfortable in enclosed spaces, this may not be for you.
How much walking is involved?
The tour covers about one mile total, split between above-ground walking in Pioneer Square and underground passages. You will climb and descend several flights of stairs during the tour, typically four to five staircases of 10 to 15 steps each. There is no wheelchair or stroller access to the underground sections. The pace is leisurely with frequent stops for the guide's narration.
Is the Underground Tour appropriate for young children?
Children ages 7 and up generally enjoy the tour. The guides use humor and storytelling that appeals to a broad audience. The underground sections are interesting for kids who enjoy exploring and history. Children under 7 may get restless during the 75-minute tour, which involves a lot of standing and listening. Kids under 7 are admitted free but must be supervised at all times.
How far in advance should I book tickets?
During peak Alaska cruise season from May through September, book at least one week in advance, especially for morning tour times. Summer tours can sell out days ahead. In the off-season or on weekdays, walk-up tickets are usually available. Online booking is recommended for the peace of mind of having a confirmed time slot.
What is the temperature like underground?
The underground passages maintain a fairly constant temperature of about 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit year-round, regardless of the weather above. This is noticeably cooler than a summer day in Seattle. Bring a light jacket or sweater even if it is warm outside. The cooler temperature is actually pleasant on hot summer afternoons.
Are there restrooms available during the tour?
There are restrooms at Doc Maynard's Public House where the tour begins. There are no restroom facilities in the underground passages themselves. Use the facilities before the tour starts. The tour runs 75 minutes without a restroom break, so plan accordingly.
What is the difference between the regular tour and the adults-only tour?
Bill Speidel's offers a standard daytime tour that is family-friendly and focuses on Seattle history with humor. They also run an adults-only evening tour called the Underworld Tour that covers the seedier aspects of Pioneer Square history including the neighborhood's red-light district past, opium dens, and prohibition-era bootlegging. The Underworld Tour is 21-plus only and runs $27 to $35 per person.
Can I explore the underground on my own without a tour?
No. The underground passages are only accessible through guided tours. They are not open to the public for self-guided exploration. The passageways are on private property beneath the buildings of Pioneer Square, and the tour operators maintain access agreements with the building owners. Bill Speidel's Underground Tour is the original and most established operator.
Is the Pioneer Square neighborhood safe?
Pioneer Square is Seattle's oldest neighborhood and is generally safe during daytime hours when the tour operates. Like many urban neighborhoods, it has a visible homeless population, but the area around Doc Maynard's and the tour route is well-traveled by tourists and locals. The neighborhood has excellent restaurants, galleries, and the original Smith Tower. Do not leave valuables visible in a parked car.